Traditional climbing course in Cadarese (Piedmont)

Description

This traditional climbing course, held in the Ossola valley in the heart of the Italian Piedmont, offers an opportunity to get introduced to "trad" climbing or to improve your skills (covering technique, safety, movement, and more) on unbolted routes.

"Trad" climbing (traditional climbing) is a sport-oriented form of "adventure terrain" climbing. The quality and frequency of protection placements along these natural lines of weakness (typically in limestone, sandstone, or granite) allow you to push your limits safely.

Cadarese, an iconic crag in the Piedmontese Alps, is renowned for its crack climbs, where removable protection (cams and nuts) reigns supreme. Although modest in size, the site offers excellent learning opportunities for trad climbing. Climbers appreciate the peaceful atmosphere in the shade of the trees at the base of the cliffs. Access is via the Simplon pass from Geneva or Lausanne, or directly from Italy.

The Piedmont region also boasts a wealth of climbing sites suited to every style of climbing.

These four days provide a chance to learn and discover the specific movement techniques required for this type of climbing. It also serves as excellent training for high-mountain climbing.

If you enjoy this style of climbing, I recommend joining me for this traditional climbing trip in Wadi Rum, Jordan. You can also join me to discover multi-pitch climbing or to climb a major multi-pitch route in the Savoie Mont Blanc region.

Program

Day 1: Review and introduction to traditional climbing and gear.
Introduction to and/or review of fixed and removable protection (pitons, cemented anchors, self-drilling anchors, expansion bolts, nuts, camming devices, threads/Abalakovs, etc.), covering their advantages, disadvantages, and placement.
Climbing at a training crag to get a feel for the gear and crack climbing.
Objectives: Discover and learn the movement techniques specific to these sandstone features (cracks, dihedrals, pockets, laybacking/Dülfer technique, chicken wings, and various body jams/locks).

Days 2 and 3: Practical application and climbing.
General ropework (multi-point anchors, rappelling).
Learning to prepare a route and organize your harness and specific gear (nut tool, crack gloves, gear slings, etc.).
Agenda: Put the techniques covered on Day 1 into practice via top-roping and/or lead climbing.
Reaching the anchor, either by utilizing the placed protection or by free climbing.

Day 4: Climbing and end of the course.
Continue climbing and applying the techniques you have learned.
Objective: Work on harder routes.
The course concludes around 5pm.
The return trip to Annecy via carpool is scheduled for that evening, arriving around 11pm.

The price includes

• Supervision by the climbing instructor.
• Loan of all technical equipment.
• Local transport between accommodation and climbing sites (minibus).

The price does not include

• Round-trip transportation to Cadarese, a 4½-hour drive from Annecy (carpooling possible).
• Accommodation.
• Catering.
• Drinks.
• Anything not mentioned in "The price includes".

Accommodation

At the convenience of the participants (AirBnb, camping, etc.).

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